The Topic:
This DIY will guide you through the cylinder head swap between a stock B202 2.0L head to a stock B212 2.1L head. 
Why would one want to change the cylinder head to a B212 2.1L head? one might ask. The answer is... more flow. 
The B212 cylinder head got larger intake ports than the B202, and the head is a newer design.

The Problem:
The largest problem is to find a good 2.1L cylinder head. The cylinder head swap is a rather big procedure. If you feel the slightest hesitation, ask someone with more experience for help. And remember it is always good to have someone to lend a hand. I did this on my own. So it can be done by one person.

Remember to torque all nuts/bolts according to specification!

The Solution:
This is going to be a "step by step" DIY. So lets start...

1. Let the car cool and remove the bonnet.
   

2. Remove the battery
   

3. Turn the crank (by hand) to TDC.
   
   Crankshaft @ TDC
    

4. Drain the radiator and all the water from the engine, this is done preferably from the drainage nut in the radiator(bottom, left-hand side) some water will still reside in the cylinder head.
   

5. Note where every tubing, cable, connector is mounted on the engine. You will need this when putting it all back. 
   

6. Remove the all intake tubing from airfilterbox to turbo, from turbo to IC, from IC to throttle body. Remove IC.
   
   Intake tubing, IC, airfilterbox removed.
   

7. Unhook the electrical "trunk" from the engine.
   
   Electrical trunk
   

8. Remove the FPR, fuel rail with the injectors. BEWARE! there's fuel in the fuel rail. Have rags ready. These rags must be soaked in water to ensure that fire doesn't break out.
   
   Fuel rail, injectors, FPR, electrical trunk removed.
   

9. Remove the intake with all connected tubes.
   
   Intake removed
   

10. Loose the exhaust pipe from the turbo. Loose water and oil connectors on the turbo. Remove the turbo from the exhaust manifold.
    

11. Remove the exhaust manifold from the cylinder head. You might need to cut or unscrew one of the bolts from the cylinder head to be able to remove the exhaust manifold.
    
    Exhaust manifold removed
    

12. Loosen AC compressor, Power steering pump.
    

13. Remove the two bolts from the rear of the block, going upwards into the cylinder head (12mm wrench).
    

14. Remove the timing chain tensioner (first use at 13mm wrench to open the small bolt, BEWARE! spring loaded! Then use a 26mm long socket to remove the tensioner).
    

15. Remove the valve cover.
    

16. Verify that the Cams are in TDC
    
    Intake Cam @ TDC
    

17. Remove the Cam gears. (14mm impact socket on cam gear, preferred. Use an adjustable spanner or monkey wrench on the cam).
    
    Tools of the trade
    

18. Remove the two bolts that holds the head to the right engine mount. (13mm wrench).
    

19. Verify that nothing is attached to the cylinder head.
    

20. Jack up the engine/gearbox "a bit" to loosen the tension of the engine mount on the cylinder head. (use a bit of wooden board and a hydraulic garage jack on the inner drive shaft joint on the gearbox) Be careful! And don't let it be under tension for a long time.
    

21. Use a Torx E16 socket to remove the cylinder head bolts
    
    Torx E16 socket
    

22. Lift off the Cylinder head. But watch the timing chain and the lower guide rail for the timing chain. Now will the rest of the water that resides in the cylinder head pour out. So be ready with rags.
    
    The headless B202
     

23. Remove the old head gasket and clean the block...
    

24. Put on the new head gasket
    

25. Put on the B212 cylinder head. Watch the timing chain and the lower guide rail for the timing chain.
    

26. Tighten the two bolts from the rear of the block, going upwards into the cylinder head (12mm wrench).
    

27. Torque the Cylinder head bolts in the correct order according to specification of gasket and bolt type.
    
    Instructions
    

28. Lower the engine and remove the jack. Tighten the bolts that holds the engine mount to the cylinder head.
    

29. Now you got the B212 cylinder on the B202 engine block. Now you need to make a decision:
    - Keep the B212 i16 Intake cam
    - Or swap to the B202 T16 Intake cam
    
    The difference is that the B202 T16 cam gives a little more high end power, but lower pre-turbo torque than the B212 i16 intake cam. It's all up to you, what kind of engine characteristics you want.
    
    I go for the "Hotter" B202 T16 cam, but I use it in conjunction with a TE05-12B turbo which has less turbo lag than the TB0357. The TE05-12B will start pushing air @ aprox 2700 rpm. But the TB0357 will start pushing air @ aprox 3200 rpm.
    
    

30. If you want to swap then now it's time to swap the intake cam. The Exhaust cam is the same between B202 and B212.
    

31. The crank shall now be in TDC.
    
    Crankshaft @ TDC
    

32. Ensure that the timing chain is in the guide rail. Stretch the timing chain and mount the cam-gear on the exhaust cam. Ensure that the Cam is in TDC. Tighten the bolt a bit. If the cam-gear is in the wrong state you'll need to do it again.
    

33. Mount the cam-gear on the intake cam in the same way. Ensure that the cam is in TDC.
    

34. Mount the timing chain tensioner after you have it reset to initial setting.
    
    Dismantled tensioner
    

35. Mount the spring and the 13mm plug in the timing chain tensioner.
    

36. Turn the intake cam "upwards" to tension the timing chain.
    

37. Verify that Crank, ex-cam, in-cam is in TDC. If not do step 14, 17 and start at step 29 again.
    When everything's look good turn the crank (by hand) two full laps. Verify that Crank, ex-cam, in-cam is in TDC and everything looks good.
     

38. Reattach everything with new gaskets (if needed) in the reverse order , like when you dismantled the cylinder head.
    Now I hope you noted where everything was mounted. And which tube went where. If not, you are now in trouble!
    Try to get hold of another SAAB and check the engine.
    

39. Refill the engine with water and antifreeze. Be sure to get all excess air out of the system.
    

40. Attach the battery.
    

41. Start up! Make sure that oil, water and all other fluids are in the engine. Cross your fingers and turn the key.
    If the engine starts make sure to keep it between 2000-2500 RPM for the first 10-15 minutes. This is done to ensure the oil pressure is high enough to push oil to every part of the engine.
    

42. Do a timing calibration of the engine. According to your engine set-up.